Again, too lazy and cheap to come up with a separate summary of what I've been doing, so I'll just type up some more excerpts from my journal. Enjoy!
Thursday 26th
Today was amazing!!! I walked to school alone because I went in after Carly and Audry but before Arianna. The kids were really good for the first hour or so, Billy especially - I adore him. They did really well at the clap counting activity compared to yesterday. They still need work on letter recognition; I guess I really need to come up with a better way to help them to remember. I was really impressed when we worked on big, medium, and small. They are bright kids I think, and eager to interact with me, but I'm not sure how much they're taking in. It's so bewildering. All the volunteers are so amazing and are doing so much for their kids and I just feel like I'm barely keeping my kids focused. I really want to help these kids. I also really want to feel connected the way some people appear to. Lately I've had trouble relating to people. For example, we went to Wli waterfall today and I nearly cried when I stood in front of it. I just felt so there, so intensely aware of my size and powerlessness in relation to this massive waterfall. I had felt more of myself there than I had in any of my interactions with the people around me. I dunno, that's hard to explain.
The waterfall was an amazing experience though. We all piled into Big Blue and Dehla drove us to the start of the trail. There were a number of shops selling masks, carvings, and jewelry. Really beautiful stuff. I picked up some gifts there and had my first real experience haggling. What fun!
I want to write more about the waterfall but I'm so exhausted. In the middle of writing this journal entry we got into this huge debate on feminism which was hilarious and so much fun ut completely dashed any hopes of getting an early night. So peace out.
Saturday 28th
Drove up to Cape Coast on Friday in an air -conditioned silver Trotro, driven by the ever-charming Francis. We are spending entirely too much this weekend and I have to keep reminding myself that this weekend is my vacation and I have to enjoy myself. There certainly have been ups and downs so far.
In Accra we got bombarded the moment we opened the door. Boys asking us our names, where we were from, would we like a necklace for very good price? It was annoying and some how a little violating. I don't like being targeted to buy shit just because I'm white, young, and a woman. The bombardment is the same everywhere we go here. At first I was surprised by how much I miss Hohoe and its genuine and happy people. We stopped in Accra only long enough to eat at Frankie's, a place where white people go to overpay for barely descent American food. Rachel and I split a Lebanese dish and some chips.
Today was a mix of the good and the bad. The hotel we are staying at is amazing: right on the beach, air conditioned, flush toilet...and of course we are paying way too much for it. Woke up cranky and remained so until we went to the rain forest for the CANOPY WALK!
The canopy walk was amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wish I had been there alone with my pen and paper, then I migh have been able to express in words the sheer power and silent dignity of that magical place. At the same time, there was also a heavy blanket of defeat about the place that felt oppressive in a way separate from the humidity or the aggressive sun.
Our guide taught us about the trees and their uses (one was a natural Viagra, the other black magic). Most of them are also endangered. We didn't see any animals because we were so noisy. there were a lot of people there. As we waiting to leave, one man let me try a coco seed. You don't actually eat it, just suck on it for a while. It tasted like yogurt a bit. I also ate coconut and drank some coconut milk.
Next stop was the slave castle which was both beautiful and sobering. The things were learned were really really depressing just as the architecture was really really gorgeous. What an odd combination. One of the most ugly stains on humanity's collective history, framed by the walls of an absolutely exquisite castle.
Back at the resort we had lunch: fish and chips and for desert, vanilla ice cream with a sweet rum sauce. Delicious. We were joined at our table by Sylvester AKA Sly AKA Rasta Man. He gave us a hilarious and bizarre lesson on true love and abstinence and then sold Rachel and I dresses. He was cute, right up Kristy's ally, but he was clearly a salesman which was off putting. We left him bartering with Navi and went down to the beach, which was beautiful.
The real fun happened at dinner. Rach and I put on our dresses and all of us put on our pretty faces. I shaved my legs for the first time since I've been here!!!! We went down to dinner and opted to sit apart from the big group. Rachel and I split snapper and Kenkay with this spicy salsa-is stuff. It's the first really Ghanian meal I've had and it was really good. I ate it with my hands.
After dinner, we went down to the bonfire on the beach where Sly, who was off his rocker high, promptly asked Navi to marry him. So much for abstinence. Hung out with Mary, Carly, and some new American friends. We sat around with our feet in the pool and chatted about anything and everything. I vaguely recall someone pulling out a harmonica and I played a shitty version of "when the saints come marching home" - still the only song I know.
All in all, I had a good time. Tomorrow is the cultural market.
Monday 30th
It is so good to be home. The culture market was hellish. I had arrived fully prepared to spend a lot of money on gifts for people back home. But getting out of the van we were mobbed and dragged in a thousand different directions. At one point Katherine tripped and like three dudes rushed to wash her leg. So bizarre. The pushiness very soon ceased to be amusing and after much effort and frustration, I went with Katherine to find sanctuary from a nearby church service.
Today school was fun. The children ran to greet me and were very good in class. Went to Gifty's and got our hair braided. We were there for five hours but it was actually pretty cool - and now my hair is long and blonce since they used extensions of a lighter color.
Wednesday 2nd.
Yesterday was awesome. Had the opportunity to sleep in but ended up getting up before 8. Ate a lot of french toast. Around nine a group of us met at "the park" - a bare patch of land with scattered grass and puddles. We were met there by a bunch of neighborhood kids. Britt had organized a soccer game the day before. We played yevos vs amebos and were defeated 6 -3. I was pretty much awful but had a blast.
After a quick shower, spent the rest of the day lazing around and reading, falling in and out of sleep on the couch. It was glorious.
Went to Boondocks to celebrate Canada Day and Republic Day as well as getting the results from my AP exams back. Three 5s!!!! What what! That's right people, I am going to Warwick. Soooooooooooo pumped!
Today, class went well. Some of the students are really coming along so it shocks me each time I discover a student who can't write the letter G. It's hard to give individual attention to students but I am donig my best. Introduced the concept of zero today and taught them "do your ears hang low." The rest of the activities were just variations on previous days. I need to be more inventive.
Biggest upset today was went Bridge fell and cut her knee open. When I asked where the first aid kit was, the teacher told me there wasn't one. Luckily Carly had a band-aid but the situation is ridiculous. Carly and I are thinking of buying a bunch of first aid kits and giving them to the school.
Went to the monkey sanctuary today which was a little boring but at least I can say I've had monkeys take bananas from my hand.
Today
Again, no placement for me today. It's field day or something so no class. I slept in and took my time getting ready.
Quick recap of yesterday: awful. The kids were wild, I was frustrated almost to tears by how little they have learned and am questioning my ability to really be effective here. Also, the water system for the school is broken so the students are having to work to carry dirt to sell so the school can afford to get it fixed. And this is supposed to be a public school. Disgraceful. These poor kids. After lunch and a short nap we we went to Beatrice's to learn how to Batik, so much fun!
I'll be leaving today for Lake Volta with Rachel and Katherine. That should be an adventure as we're taking public transport. I'll make sure to pack my bug spray.
I love you all lots and lots and hope you are all enjoying your summer as much as I am! When I get home I'll upload some pictures to show you the places and people I've been talking about. Feel free to e-mail me, I try to get up to the internet cafe at least once a week.
Lesedi
Friday, July 4, 2008
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4 comments:
Another great blog! Next time could you tell us a bit more about Hohoe? About how big is it, can you think of a similiar-sized place here? What is there besides the schools, orphanage, hospital? How far do you have to walk to get to the Internet cafe? What is that like?
As far as the teaching goes, every teacher experiences similiar frustrations. And, you have to remember you have no formal training. So, from the sound of it, you are doing a magnificent job. Also, just being exposed to you (as a super-terrific individual and a foreigner), those children are gaining so much. Imagine the impact a smart, enthusiastic African young woman would have on Hannah's or Heidi's class, even if it were only for 4 weeks! Do they have time to ask you about your home, and you to ask them about their homes?
Love you. Keep up this wonderful chronicle of your experiences. Oh, and ... three fives!!!!
Mom
Hi Lesedi! Just love reading your blog and hearing about all of your adventures in Ghana. It sounds so incredibly beautiful! I hope you got a close up of the monkey who ate the banana out of your hand. How neat! We all miss you and look forward to hearing all about your experiences when you get home. I am so proud (but not surprised) to hear how dedicated you are to the children in your class. They are lucky to have you, and as much as they have impacted your life, you too will have made a positive difference in theirs.
Love you lots Lesedi! Take good care. Love, Aunt Jo
Baby, congrats on your 5s! You did even better than me! I absolutely knew that you could do it. :3
I'm glad you seem to be having so much fun thus far. Try not to let a bad day with the kids weigh you down too much. That kind of thing happens to even trained, licensed teachers so don't worry about it. Even if your contribution towards their learning seems tiny and hopeless, it's at least a small step towards where they need to be.
Anyway, have fun kiddo! Try not to get roped into any marriages.
Wow Lesedi... I'm not sure whether to be envious of your situation or grateful that I'm sitting here in the 'States...
I would be going absolutley bonkers over the food over there, I hope you're trying a lot of new dishes!
It is also my sincere hope that you are taking hundreds of photographs. You illustrate very well with your words though, I can get a feel of what it's like.
You're doing great things!
-Ian
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